冲浪(Surfing)——欧美有史以来十大强项

冲浪欧美有史以来十大强项在欧美有史以来十大强项中排名第31名。

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我所做的几乎每一个其他体育运动,但现在我做混合武术和冲浪。没有人知道冲浪是什么样子。我冲浪在35度与双顶浪水。如果你不使下拉波得到一生的重击与冷冻水冲洗你的潜水服。不是任何人可以划船。它是如此容易体温过低,只需要30分钟死。也有冲浪的人50英尺的海浪和超级锋利的珊瑚礁。人死,只需要一个。你可以在几分钟。

I've done almost every other sport but right now I do mixed martial arts and surfing. Nobody has any idea what surfing is like. I surf in 35 degree water with double overhead waves. If you do not make the drop down the wave then you get the pounding of a lifetime with freezing water flushing through your wetsuit. Not anybody can just paddle out there. It is so easy to get hypothermia out there and it only takes 30 minutes to die. Also there are the people who surf 50 foot waves and up over super sharp coral reefs. People die all the time and it just takes one fall. You can be held under for minutes at a time.